I can't believe I'm so behind on my updates!
Okay, here I'm gonna go and try and give you all the updates because I hate working in past tense...
The felucca trip up the Nile was awesome. Period. We all got ripped off a bit on the deal, although I got ripped off the least of other peoples (and that's basically the way it's been this entire trip). I guess you make do as best you can--flex those bargaining muscles. Oh, on a side note, did I ever mention the lady-camel exchanges that go on here, quite jokingly (one assumes)? Let me know if I haven't and I will explain...
Anyway, the morning of my felucca trip I was told to wake up and be ready by 8:30 a.m...of course, according to Egyptian time, we didn't even get out of Luxor until nearly 2 or 3 p.m. (I can no longer remember, but the two are essentially the same--late). For those of you who don't know, a felucca is basically a small sailboat with a padded deck that serves as a bed and everything else...captains rent out their boats for 7-8 people for a number of days and nights and sail up the Nile. It's extremely relaxing and lots of fun--plus you meet tons of cool people. For me it was a near-complete reunion of the Abu Simbel crew, and we entertained ourselves well throughout the days and nights. Some more than others in more alcoholic or drug induced manners. I was surprised the felucca captains didn't start bringing out prostitutes for us--if you get my drift--they sold us everything and anything else!
Some people went swimming in the Nile, and I can say I was sorely tempted, but the idea of bloody piss and bloody stools...kept me away. Although...my feet did get splashed a couple times (*knocks on wood*).
So I was on the felucca for about two nights and two-ish days. The last day was...yesterday!...and basically involved traveling into Luxor and stopping by a couple temples on the way. I can say I was quite excited to get to Luxor and finish up the temples and monuments--I was nearly monumented out, and I've nearly memorized the history and background information on Egypt in my Lonely Planet guide.
On arriving into Luxor, my new travel buddy Jim--an American guy from San Francisco living in Dubai and teaching SAT courses there--and I searched for some accommodation together. We were able to get the people down to 15 Egyptian pounds (less than $3 for a double room with a bathroom and shower, plus free tea, laundry use, and breakfast. Not too shabby.
That very same day we went out to see Karnak and the Luxor Temple after enjoying a nice lunch of fresh salad and kushari an Egyptian food that is made of rice, beans, fried onions, macaroni and tomato sauce--with hot sauce and garlic/lemon juice if you like. It's amazingly delicious. Yesterday was also one of the first dasys in a long time when I was been traveling fully rested, and after a nice shower to cleanse myself of the felucca dirt (the water was brownish/black), I borrowed clean pants from Jim, and I was good to go. Both sights were wondrous (running out of adjectives here)...it was also damn hot, but we were trying to keep hydrated and were drinking lots of water.
When we got back we did a couple quick loads of laundry (basically the typical handwashing), and then went to grab dinner. I had stuffed pigeon--an Egyptian specialty--for the first time. It was rather boney...not too much meat on it, but it tasted like chicken! Seriously. It was quite good, but even so, I don't think I'll be eating it again...I can't really wrap my minds around the fact that I'm eating a pigeon...
After a stop by the net cafe and some mango juice boxes on the roof top we called it a night. Early the next morning (today) we would be waking up at 7 a.m. to head out early for the infamous Valley of the Kings and Queens, Hatshepsut Temple and the Collossi of Memnon.
***
And so it goes, that today (finally speaking in the present) we headed out for the tourist spots of all tourist spots. Since it was hot as heck here...and apparently supposed to be about 110 degrees Fahrenheit...I decided to ditch the modest wear and splash out in sports. After all, I would be at the epicenter of Egyptian tourist activity, and whatever I was wearing (shorts and a tee-shirt), someone else would be wearing a worser variation of the same thing--oh yes, and this was so true (all I will say is flimsy, form-fitting clothes that do not fit, on Eastern European girls)...
It was lovely being in shorts. Oh so lovely. We were paired by a rather knowledgable Egyptologist (supposedly), but I found the majority of his comments a reiteration of facts I a) already knew, or b) could easily read in half the time in my guidebook. Although, for Hatshepsut Temple he was quite helpful...
After all the sightseeing, we were starving, dehydrated and tired (it was like...2 p.m. when we were done, and we'd been out in the sun nearly the entire time)...
Jim and I both had a real falafel craving, and we talked the guide into joining us for lunch at a good local falafel place (his choice). The food was excellent, and damn cheap. All three of us ate our fill for less than $1. The only thing that tainted the experience was the guide's launch into a hate-filled monologue on America, Americans, Bush, Israel, and a justification of 9/11. At that final thing, I had to say something. And I did, telling him that there is no excuse for killing innocent people--absolutely zero--and that death, anywhere, is a bad thing. Clear and simple enough, and spoken as tactfully and honestly as possible (as well as slowly), he was somewhat agreeable. Then I told him that politics ruins one's appetite and digestion, and he agreed that we should not longer talk about it. Whew. (His next topic was about how a guy should always be older than his wife because then he can control her--if a woman is of equal age to a man, she will always control him because women are "more clever.") Ehm.
Afterwards we said our goodbyes to the guide (hater), and continued over to the bus station to get a ticket for Hurgada (a coastal town) that we will leave for tomorrow, spend one night in as a pitt-stop, before heading over to Sharm-el-Sheikh by ferry the next morning, then Mount Sinai and eventually Dahab (where I plan to get a diving license). The walk to and from the bus station was not fun--especially since I was in shorts--and we did it as quickly as possible. Luckily I was walking around with a guy, so I was a-okay enough. But, I wouldn't venture out like that again (and it wasn't my intention to begin with).
When we finally got back to the hotel we were both incredibly glad, and settled in for a couple hours of relaxation. I've been studying up on my Spanish. Since Jim's traveled in South America for about six months and is fluent in Spanish as well as a teacher, he was quite excited to help me out on my Spanish by testing me on things. It ended up working out really great, and I was able to review a lot of the things I haven't touched since my first month in Brussels when I was just starting to study.
For dinner tonight we got kushari again, and then some fresh mango juice (two big glasses for about 50 cents)...now we're using the net before probably going back to freshen up and call it a night. I think I could probably use another cup of mango...mmmm....
***
Wow. I'm caught up. Thanks for bearing with me. I shall attempt to be more prolific as well as up to date from now on. Oh yes, and now I can dwell on some interesting points about these places that I've noticed. For example, Luxor--the epicenter of tourism--as I call it, is incredibly poor. Many streets are not properly paved...I mean, it's a level of poverty one would imagine in India or any other well-publicized third world country. It really is the third world here, and it's incredibly sad to think sometimes that we are probably seeing the people that are doing well. It's a very odd thing to imagine these people functioning back home in the States, or imagining how your life would be if you had not been born where you were, but instead born in Egypt or Morocco, for example. You definitely notice the privileges you have, and you appreciate them.
On a somewhat different note, the begging here is incredibly annoying at times. I've finally found a fair way of dealing with it, because here you will always be walking by people who randomly yell at you "Give me your money"--"Money, money, money"--Baksheesh...?!?!? (tip?!?!?)--often after doing nothing more than helping you down a step or pointing you in the proper direction of something. Tourists are walking money. Little children, poor women, old men and young boys all chase after you wanting your money. They even hide around corners and pop out asking you for "baksheesh." It's horrible...
Anyway, today I started asking them for baksheesh when I walked by--especially if they were trying to sell me something and wouldn't leave me alone. The joking was well received by them and they'd venture to put one Egyptian pound in my hand or smile along with me, before taking their hand back, and then moving on to another tourist. Finally, a method to the madness!
Feels good to talk in the present...more tomorrow!
The felucca trip up the Nile was awesome. Period. We all got ripped off a bit on the deal, although I got ripped off the least of other peoples (and that's basically the way it's been this entire trip). I guess you make do as best you can--flex those bargaining muscles. Oh, on a side note, did I ever mention the lady-camel exchanges that go on here, quite jokingly (one assumes)? Let me know if I haven't and I will explain...
Anyway, the morning of my felucca trip I was told to wake up and be ready by 8:30 a.m...of course, according to Egyptian time, we didn't even get out of Luxor until nearly 2 or 3 p.m. (I can no longer remember, but the two are essentially the same--late). For those of you who don't know, a felucca is basically a small sailboat with a padded deck that serves as a bed and everything else...captains rent out their boats for 7-8 people for a number of days and nights and sail up the Nile. It's extremely relaxing and lots of fun--plus you meet tons of cool people. For me it was a near-complete reunion of the Abu Simbel crew, and we entertained ourselves well throughout the days and nights. Some more than others in more alcoholic or drug induced manners. I was surprised the felucca captains didn't start bringing out prostitutes for us--if you get my drift--they sold us everything and anything else!
Some people went swimming in the Nile, and I can say I was sorely tempted, but the idea of bloody piss and bloody stools...kept me away. Although...my feet did get splashed a couple times (*knocks on wood*).
So I was on the felucca for about two nights and two-ish days. The last day was...yesterday!...and basically involved traveling into Luxor and stopping by a couple temples on the way. I can say I was quite excited to get to Luxor and finish up the temples and monuments--I was nearly monumented out, and I've nearly memorized the history and background information on Egypt in my Lonely Planet guide.
On arriving into Luxor, my new travel buddy Jim--an American guy from San Francisco living in Dubai and teaching SAT courses there--and I searched for some accommodation together. We were able to get the people down to 15 Egyptian pounds (less than $3 for a double room with a bathroom and shower, plus free tea, laundry use, and breakfast. Not too shabby.
That very same day we went out to see Karnak and the Luxor Temple after enjoying a nice lunch of fresh salad and kushari an Egyptian food that is made of rice, beans, fried onions, macaroni and tomato sauce--with hot sauce and garlic/lemon juice if you like. It's amazingly delicious. Yesterday was also one of the first dasys in a long time when I was been traveling fully rested, and after a nice shower to cleanse myself of the felucca dirt (the water was brownish/black), I borrowed clean pants from Jim, and I was good to go. Both sights were wondrous (running out of adjectives here)...it was also damn hot, but we were trying to keep hydrated and were drinking lots of water.
When we got back we did a couple quick loads of laundry (basically the typical handwashing), and then went to grab dinner. I had stuffed pigeon--an Egyptian specialty--for the first time. It was rather boney...not too much meat on it, but it tasted like chicken! Seriously. It was quite good, but even so, I don't think I'll be eating it again...I can't really wrap my minds around the fact that I'm eating a pigeon...
After a stop by the net cafe and some mango juice boxes on the roof top we called it a night. Early the next morning (today) we would be waking up at 7 a.m. to head out early for the infamous Valley of the Kings and Queens, Hatshepsut Temple and the Collossi of Memnon.
***
And so it goes, that today (finally speaking in the present) we headed out for the tourist spots of all tourist spots. Since it was hot as heck here...and apparently supposed to be about 110 degrees Fahrenheit...I decided to ditch the modest wear and splash out in sports. After all, I would be at the epicenter of Egyptian tourist activity, and whatever I was wearing (shorts and a tee-shirt), someone else would be wearing a worser variation of the same thing--oh yes, and this was so true (all I will say is flimsy, form-fitting clothes that do not fit, on Eastern European girls)...
It was lovely being in shorts. Oh so lovely. We were paired by a rather knowledgable Egyptologist (supposedly), but I found the majority of his comments a reiteration of facts I a) already knew, or b) could easily read in half the time in my guidebook. Although, for Hatshepsut Temple he was quite helpful...
After all the sightseeing, we were starving, dehydrated and tired (it was like...2 p.m. when we were done, and we'd been out in the sun nearly the entire time)...
Jim and I both had a real falafel craving, and we talked the guide into joining us for lunch at a good local falafel place (his choice). The food was excellent, and damn cheap. All three of us ate our fill for less than $1. The only thing that tainted the experience was the guide's launch into a hate-filled monologue on America, Americans, Bush, Israel, and a justification of 9/11. At that final thing, I had to say something. And I did, telling him that there is no excuse for killing innocent people--absolutely zero--and that death, anywhere, is a bad thing. Clear and simple enough, and spoken as tactfully and honestly as possible (as well as slowly), he was somewhat agreeable. Then I told him that politics ruins one's appetite and digestion, and he agreed that we should not longer talk about it. Whew. (His next topic was about how a guy should always be older than his wife because then he can control her--if a woman is of equal age to a man, she will always control him because women are "more clever.") Ehm.
Afterwards we said our goodbyes to the guide (hater), and continued over to the bus station to get a ticket for Hurgada (a coastal town) that we will leave for tomorrow, spend one night in as a pitt-stop, before heading over to Sharm-el-Sheikh by ferry the next morning, then Mount Sinai and eventually Dahab (where I plan to get a diving license). The walk to and from the bus station was not fun--especially since I was in shorts--and we did it as quickly as possible. Luckily I was walking around with a guy, so I was a-okay enough. But, I wouldn't venture out like that again (and it wasn't my intention to begin with).
When we finally got back to the hotel we were both incredibly glad, and settled in for a couple hours of relaxation. I've been studying up on my Spanish. Since Jim's traveled in South America for about six months and is fluent in Spanish as well as a teacher, he was quite excited to help me out on my Spanish by testing me on things. It ended up working out really great, and I was able to review a lot of the things I haven't touched since my first month in Brussels when I was just starting to study.
For dinner tonight we got kushari again, and then some fresh mango juice (two big glasses for about 50 cents)...now we're using the net before probably going back to freshen up and call it a night. I think I could probably use another cup of mango...mmmm....
***
Wow. I'm caught up. Thanks for bearing with me. I shall attempt to be more prolific as well as up to date from now on. Oh yes, and now I can dwell on some interesting points about these places that I've noticed. For example, Luxor--the epicenter of tourism--as I call it, is incredibly poor. Many streets are not properly paved...I mean, it's a level of poverty one would imagine in India or any other well-publicized third world country. It really is the third world here, and it's incredibly sad to think sometimes that we are probably seeing the people that are doing well. It's a very odd thing to imagine these people functioning back home in the States, or imagining how your life would be if you had not been born where you were, but instead born in Egypt or Morocco, for example. You definitely notice the privileges you have, and you appreciate them.
On a somewhat different note, the begging here is incredibly annoying at times. I've finally found a fair way of dealing with it, because here you will always be walking by people who randomly yell at you "Give me your money"--"Money, money, money"--Baksheesh...?!?!? (tip?!?!?)--often after doing nothing more than helping you down a step or pointing you in the proper direction of something. Tourists are walking money. Little children, poor women, old men and young boys all chase after you wanting your money. They even hide around corners and pop out asking you for "baksheesh." It's horrible...
Anyway, today I started asking them for baksheesh when I walked by--especially if they were trying to sell me something and wouldn't leave me alone. The joking was well received by them and they'd venture to put one Egyptian pound in my hand or smile along with me, before taking their hand back, and then moving on to another tourist. Finally, a method to the madness!
Feels good to talk in the present...more tomorrow!
posted by IJW at 10:44 PM
2 Comments:
About the women for camels comment- my grandfather was offered two camels for my mom once in Jerusalem by a Bedouin man. Luckily for my mom, her dad refused the offer, but he was then informed that he had given up on a real deal because the bedouin's first wife was only worth one camel!
My parents find all this hilarious and my mom complains every time she gets me on the phone that Doug has yet to deliver the camels he owes them...
Baksheesh is the arabian word for bribe. Normally you can advance everything with baksheesh in these countries. It's good if you have to deal with an official....but take care, it can also be the quickest way into jail:-P The young guys seem to have discovered a "baksheesh industry"....
al
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