Happy

It's been a while since I was comfortable and happy in a location, yet despite my initial problems in Uppuveli, I am very happy here now. I'm in a place that is not officially a hotel, that is well kept and homey, where I can leave my camera on the table and not worry while I go to the beach. They lock the back gate and open it for me to go in and out. Egenia is an amazing cook. This morning she made me delicious eggs with tomatoes and spice to them. For lunch I had fresh fish curry with rice that had vegetables and spices chopped up into it. The curry was perfectly spiced. And for dinner in a few minutes we're having a birthday celebration barbecue for Alberto, the owner of the place. He and his friends returned from travels in the troubled north. They've hooked up the projector to watch the Italy vs. New Zealand football match, and a fire is blazing, ready to cook a gigantic fish. I was planning to leave tomorrow, but I think I may stay one more day.

True, I walk in only one direction on the beach because of my trepidation of meeting Robert or other shady characters...I've also increased my reject list, and today my phone ignored six calls, lots from Robert. It doesn't ring, but I do see it light up as it ignores the numbers. Good phone.

It was a lazy day. I met up with the English couple at 11 a.m. and we waded through the river (low tide) to the Hindu temple. It was beautiful, and because the water was so low, we all wished we'd brought our cameras along. The temple was bright and multi-colored, with vibrant Hindu gods depicted ornately throughout its architecture. Thankfully I'd taken a photo off the boat the other day. Though it's not quite the same.

We continued walking along the coast and were invited to a villager's house for a drink. We told him we had no money on us (we didn't!). He said it was fine. He brought along fresh coconuts and with his large curved knife he somewhat scarily chopped it up and gave us each our own drinks, then sliced it in half and gave us the coconut inside to eat. The juice and meat of a fresh coconut is actually (from what I understand) a natural Gatorade-like source, with lots of electrolytes and very good at rehydrating a person. Afterward he walked us along the beach back to the temple, where noon time was prayer time. He gave each of us a blessing of an orange, then white, then red powdered dot on our foreheads and stripes along our necks. He sprinkled some on our heads and feet. We all looked like we had war paint on. At the nearby shrine he blessed us again with his hands going over each of our heads. Then we continued walking. He pointed to home after home with its foundations and nothing else left, torn up by the tsunami. A mother, father and child, killed. His own wife and mother killed. His wife's hair caught up in tree branches that swished in while she was in the kitchen. The area is still very much picking itself up off the ground. As we continued walking back to our places, he walked with us. By then we knew he was in for some rupees. But we had no money with us.

I dashed into my place to grab my camera and take a photo of us. I had no small bills after my visit to the bank, so I couldn't tip the guy. We then decided to go for a short swim. The English couple was also heading out tomorrow and they suggested traveling together. I thought it was a great idea, but had no clue how to get ahold of them to solidify plans. We weren't traveling the exact same way, and they had no local number. They were also staying right next to that Pragash place, so I had no interest in walking around there to see them. Gordon and Hannah left soon after to go back, and said they would tip the guy a couple hundred rupees. Whew. He'd been somewhat unhappily dunking himself in the water with us, but not enjoying it as much as we were it seemed. He just wanted some money, and then wanted to leave. Meanwhile, I was enjoying the water immensely. I stayed a bit longer, and then got out to get ready for lunch.

We'd somehow lost power, and it would remain off for most of the afternoon and into the evening. After lunch we still had no power. I lounged around and finished reading "The Forever War"--I didn't know Filkins had worked for the Los Angeles Times before the New York Times. The foreign editor there was the one who first sent him abroad!

In the afternoon I tried to nap, but my room was too hot. We had no water either because the water tank was emptied. They kept trying to get power back, but to no avail. Then it started to pour, and rumble thunder and lightning. We had planned a big barbecue for tonight, and Engenia and another lady ran out to grab firewood. I ran out behind them and was soaked in seconds. We sought shelter under a little hut thing outdoors and the rain and winds picked up. The ocean smashed violently onto the sands about 20 meters away. We ran back in and hung out around a large flashlight in the kitchen. We boiled some water and made some tea. It was kind of nice. We were all waiting for the rain to let up and for Albert and his guests to return. The guests arrived first and soon after the electricity returned too! Then the rain stopped. All just in time! We sat for a while and they gave me travel tips. It looks like I'll be traveling for about 10 hours to get to Arugam Bay, my next official destination, which means I need to leave at 5:45 a.m. tomorrow...or the next day. I will probably leave Tuesday given tonight's festivities. Anyway, gotta go! More later.

IJW