An island in the Middle East...

(A new year, a new post...)

It's very strange being in Israel, so close to Egypt and other similar countries, yet seemingly so far. The differences are quite stark and seem to affect every level of life--cleanliness, poverty, clothing, mannerisms, etc...I could go on forever with the minutiae.

Anyway, the other day I was sitting at the bus stop here after visiting a shopping mall. Interestingly, or perhaps sadly, most action and social outings seem to take place in malls here because they are small islands (to continue the theme) of security--people traveling into the mall must pass through security screeners and open up their bags. Thus, as my friend Devora put it, though the mall is the small island of security, ironically, the lines going into the malls are one of the most dangerous spots to be in. Ah well. Okay, so where was I? Yes, I was sitting at a bus stop after having visited the mall (and eating the best schwarma--meat, salads and sauces in this big rolled up piece of delicious bread--of my life!). While sitting at the stop waiting, a group of little girls descended on me and my comrades there. They had plates full of apples and honey and small cards that they handed to each of us.

Two things: How do you know you've been in Israel too long when you're back in the States? When you go to the mall you open up your bag to the random security guard.

Now, how do you know you've been traveling in North African/Middle Eastern countries too long? When you encounter any sort of kindness or freebie, you think you are getting scammed and will have to pay for it--in one way or another.

So I warily take an apple and honey, after watching the girl next to me unhesitatingly do so, and I say thank you. They also give me a small card they've colored with crayon that says "Shana Tova", or "Happy New Year" on it (5767), and then they leave. And I sit there with mixed feelings, and (again!) near tears...I felt badly for thinking the worst of such sweet kids and was blown away by the kindness of the gesture. Kind of like when I arrived in the airport in Tel Aviv and there was a big sign wishing everybody a happy new year and happy holidays (well not really the same, but also novel for me, especially coming from the very Christian States). In Morocco and Egypt, and especially in Egypt, it was always the little kids that would suddenly appear, pop up out of nowhere, tug your sleeves or pants, and ask for "bakhsheesh" or "money"...A common thing Jim and I would often hear while traveling was "Hello, money!"...and Jim swore at one point he should just change his name to "money."

In any case, it was nice to realize I can let my guard down a little. At least sometimes. Sometimes being too wary a traveler can make you miss out on very nice and key experiences. Even so, the consequences of being too wary are far less compromising than being too relaxed.

On Tuesday or Wednesday I shall travel back to Jerusalem and hang out there for a while, and then maybe head over to the beach in Tel Aviv for a bit, then perhaps do some camping up North.

I was also considering and slightly tempted to travel into the West Bank (short day trip) through East Jerusalem. Anyone with information or tips on this--pass it on! I plan to do my research before embarking on any foolhardy excursion.

That's it for now. My net access is somewhat restricted in Be'er Sheva, but shall hopefully become a little more frequent and easy in Jerusalem. Until next time!