Finally, that first day in Egypt.

Ah, day one in Cairo. What a day it was. Here it's a lot more humid than in Morocco, so I travel about with a constant sheen of sweat on my that I cannot seem to get rid of despite the number of showers I take. I do these little mini-washes during the day in bathrooms, trying to cleanse off the dirt and sweat, but it's hardly effective.

When I got into Cairo from the airport at 7 a.m. I was already incredibly exhausted. I surveyed the next couple hours of getting into town and finding my hostel in my mind with a certain amount of dread and fatigue usually reserved for those major obstacles in life (huge exams, personal problems, etc...).

As I walked out of the airport, tourist touts from all over swarmed to meet me. "Official guides" asked me if I was meeting someone or had a place. Whether or not I did or did not, or was or was not (did, but wasn't), I told them yes. It's a common enough scam, and luckily I'd studied up on it. Many others I'd spoken to later had not...and these "government officials" screwed them over--hard.

First order of business was to get money at the ATM. When the machine took my card and then told me that I'd have to get a new card because the machine had eaten it...I was near losing it. Luckily, it was likely another scam, because a minute afterward the proper screen came up. I got my money out...and my card was returned! Hallelujah! Then the screen came up that said "Out of Order." I was lucky.

I got outside and after lots of frustrating searching ("there are no buses, you must take a taxi!")...I found the bus into two for 1/10 the price I would have had to pay for a taxi. The thing is, here, everyone, even locals, have to fight for everything...tickets, taxis, buying whatever you need...it's all bargaining, baksheesh (small tips), corruption up and down the ranks...life is a constant battle. It makes me appreciate the simplicity of the west, but, then again, there is a lot of color to life here.

After getting to my hostel and taking a quick nap I head out to search for a SIM card for my cell phone. I also have to buy a ISIC (international student card) as Egypt doesn't accept any normal cards and these save 1/2 on everything throughout the country (I made back my money the first day!). After trundling through the streets in the heat and still exhausted having not slept the night before in the plane, plus getting hassled by almost everyone as I tried to find the proper store...I'm close to losing my cool. While asking for information from a very (seemingly) nice guy...my eyes are tearing up and I can barely help myself. He seems distressed, but finishes giving me directions, and an hour after I started off I circle back around and finally find the right store. When I walk in and ask for the SIM card (which by then represented more than the card itself, but my means and access to the outside world--family, friends, comfort), I was so relieved that I nearly started bawling.

I think the stress was starting to show. The guy working at the store spoke near-perfect English and he was alarmed by my tears. After he calmed me down he helped me get my card and everything in order. Though he kindly told me the price and said he was making it "special" to help me regain my confidence, I was like a formerly abused foster child, I didn't know if I could trust him. Later I found out that he had, indeed, given me a cheaper deal and been honest with me. Humdull'allah.

Digression: Here they incorporate phrases like "Insh'Allah" (G-d willing) and "Humdull'allah" (Thank G-d) in everyday speech...which actually isn't too far gone from what I normally do in English with "G-d willing" and "G-d forbid." Works nicely for me.

After getting the SIM card I had to hail a taxi to get the ISIC card across town. The trick is to stand by the side of the road and shout like a local until a taxi stops, tell them your destination while getting in and go. Don't mention the price. If you can blend in, pretend to be a local and make use of your limited Arabic. I jumped into a cab and stated the place name in the best Arabic I could muster (polished through numerous mental recitations), and off we went. My cab driver offered me half of his sandwich that he couldn't finish, and we drove on. It was delicious and made me feel a lot better. He spoke to me some in Arabic, and I continued the charade, making small talk with about four of the words I knew--feigning exhaustion and shyness (not too hard). At one point he offered to stop to get me a sandwich, but I told him no thanks, and when we finally got to my destination I got out of the cab, said thanks, and gave him the amount of money (you should research this amount ahead, and just know).

After getting the card I grabbed a bottle of water and went on my way to the Egyptian Museum by metro. The metro was great, very efficient and fast--I was in the women's card up front...which was nice and hassle free.

Eek, running out of time here. Anyway, The Egyptian Museum was a real highlight. I had my guidebook with me, which basically outlined things room by room and key object by object...it saved me money on a guide, which otherwise is quite necessary because the place is not very well labeled or indicated. The museum is amazing. By far one of my favorites. All of those things you read about and study when you are a kid, are there! Well, many of them. Tutenkhamun...and the like. I was there for three hours, but I could have easily spent three days. I did not even feel tired!

After the museum I was on a quest to find good food. I bumped into this random American University of Cairo Egyptian student who seemed nice enough. He told me straight out--no money, no hustling--and he likes meeting foreigners, he's lived a year in Germany. By then I was too tired to be suspicious, and I didn't get a bad vibe. The guy--Muhammed, or Alex, as he preferred to be called since there are so many Muhammed's in Egypt--and I grabbed dinner at an awesome and cheap place ($1 for my entire meal!), he helped me change the language on my phone and helped me get to Khan el-Khalili market place area here where there was a free Sufi dancing show that night. We exchanged info and off I went.

At the Sufi dancing show line I met a couple American University students...who were Americans! It was a nice relief to talk to some other Americans and I saw the show with them.

Sufi dancing...is undescribable really, you must see it. Basically these people dance as a way of worshipping G-d, and they essentially go into these trance-like states while dancing. The show was very professional, instrumental, and long...

Afterward I met up with Alex and two of his friens (an American and Canadian) and we went up on the roof of this place for sheesha (hookah) and fresh juice--guava/lemon.

I finally got back to my hostel exhausted at about 1 a.m...and crashed.

Day 2 coming up soon...the pyramids, Cairo traffic and living up to my namesake, the black market and a Nubian (Sudanese-Egyptian) wedding!